Questions and Answers
Hi,we are replacing are carpet,and would like to hear from anyone that knows about carpet.?We have samples from,hearth&home,anosonylon,and resista just wondering if anyone has had any of these carpets?
Rebond is the more reasonable in price cost and allows about the same durability as heavy density foam pads.
Now on to the type of carpet:
Continuous loop nylon vs. Cut pile nylon. Think as if you “latch hooked” each piece into the backing and the the top is sheared off for even height. This type of carpet is less durable on fiber wear and “sheds” (the cut pile residue pills up into little fiber balls) for up to a year with traditional vacuuming. To minimize the length of time a carpet shed and the amount of shedding, then either vacuum twice a day or carpet clean after 3 months and then another in 6 months .
I am a fan of the continuous loop. This is where one continuous yarn is threaded through the backing and then sheared off at the top. This kind wears better on the overall appearance and long term carpet wear. Cut pile is short term and you may be selling your home. Continuous should have a shelf life of at least 7-10 years with proper annual steam carpet cleaning and at least 2x a week vacuuming. The more often you get dirt debris particulates out of the carpet (think of sand which is composed of glass shards cutting your carpet fiber – how yarn wears over time)
The higher the twist of the yarn (how many times it has been sent into a corkscrew twist) the more the fibers will stand up over time as opposed to going flat. That is knowns as a Frieze. First generation Frieze’s were a bit rough to the touch but modifications to how this is manufactures has left many as soft as chenille fibers.
Frieze’s have a longer time warranty to them than standard continuous loop yarns
Also, you will want to make sure there is a stain resistant warranty to your carpet as if the carpet fails to stain release, then you may be eligible for possible carpet replacement.
Many warranties subscribe to the recommendations of the Carpet & Rug Institute (CRI) and it is important to familiarize yourself with the warranty requirements in order to maintain the length of the warranty. As mentioned before, frequent vacuuming and periodic carpet steam cleaning. Other forms of carpet cleaning (i.e dry chemical cleaning, etc.) are not recognized as valid forms of cleaning by the CRI
CRI is the gold standard on good carpet and padding along with installation and care. I have provided the source link of the CRI for understanding your carpet and padding.
Tips about installation:
If your store allows it, walk the length of the carpet prior to any cutting down to check for continuity of the carpet fibers and color harmony at when the sun is not too blinding but at a good color light not under flourescence. This way if there are glaring defects, you can have the carpet sent back prior to installation inconveniences
Your seam lines should be placed in areas at doorways and non-pathway (almost no foot traffic) areas. The seam pattern should be virtually invisible (not all seems are COMPLETELY invisible) and installed in the correct pattern direction (just like sewing – material has one direction flow) to prevent a 2-tone color appearance. Seams should not “peak” where it stands up a bit but should lay flat.
Proper installation is done with a power stretcher vs. Kicking in the carpet. Kicking in is for the initial stretching, but the final stretch should be powered stretched in to give it the final “tight drum” finish which minimizes the potential of buckling (where the carpet becomes loose and wrinkles). Keep all excess in a clean dry place for possible future patch ins. Larger pieces can be made into “area rugs” by having the ends bound. Many stores have a visitor binder sew the edges with a bias tape which they charge on the linear foot. Measure the perimeter of the carpet piece to be bound and this is your linear feet. So no mater how expensive your carpet is, a bad installation will ruin it
Any spills should be immediately pressed with a clean white cloth (colored can transfer dyes to the carpet) and using a heavy pressure force to get the spill from the padding up. Unchecked moisture in the padding can cause mildew growth which creates dark stain appearances on the carpet. No amount of steam cleaning will resolve it until the section of affected pad is replaced
Urine stains need to be immediately sopped up and neutralized with a white vineagar and distilled water. Again from the padding up. Urine is acidic and will eventually cause breakdown of the latex backing to the carpet, which releases its hold onto the fibers and will cause buckling over time of exposure.
Area rugs should have a non-abrasive backing or you can purchase a few for underneath your area rug if yours does not have any. This helps minimize the friction and movement of the carpet on your new carpet and wearing out the fibers
Good luck on your shopping. Forgive the length but I was an educator of flooring products so I tend to get a bit passionate about it.
Which steam mop should I buy?I want one that will clean my carpets and couches but I do not want anything expensive and I don’t think I want a bulky carpet steamer.
Steam Master Carpet Cleaning
1710 Santa Ana Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
have a look at all the things it can do 🙂 i think you can get it cheaper than this and it depends what country you are buying is from as well 🙂https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfZyDRVjlB4
Has anyone tried mixing water in the tank with something else like vinegar or lemon? Any tips on how to maximize the steamer’s performance?This steam mop(video is not mine.
Half the time with this kind of thing you just gotta experiment 😀 good luck to you.